Chess Strategy and Tips

Here is how to think about winning at Chess, split into short lessons. Each one reads on its own, and each one comes with a real position: press Try it on the board and you play the move yourself.

The three opening rules

Lesson 1

There are only three jobs in the opening: take the four centre squares (d4, e4, d5, e5), bring your sleeping pieces to squares where they work, and castle the king into safety. Moving the same piece twice or pushing a rook's pawn does none of the three.

The centre matters because pieces reach further from it. On an empty board a knight in the middle has eight squares to jump to; a knight in the corner has two. The same piece is four times as useful. Bishops and queens behave the same way: the lines through the centre are the long ones.

Here both sides have pushed a centre pawn and developed one knight. There are twenty legal moves in the starting position, but the move you want now is another minor piece — a bishop or the other knight. Once they are out, you castle, and the opening is over.

Forks

Lesson 2

A fork attacks two pieces with one move. Your opponent can only save one, so you win the other. The knight is the best forker in chess: it jumps over everything and reaches eight squares. A fork that also gives check is the cleanest of all, because the king has to move and the second piece is simply yours.

Look for forks whenever the enemy king and a queen or rook line up on squares a knight can hit from one spot. Two pieces standing on the same colour square are the usual clue. Bishops and pawns fork too — a pawn pushing one square and attacking two pieces at once happens all the time in the opening.

Here the knight jumps in and hits the king and the rook together. Black has exactly two legal replies and both of them are king moves; the rook then comes off and the material swings the other way. A fork disappears if you wait a move, so jump as soon as you see it.

Pins

Lesson 3

Aim a bishop, rook or queen at an enemy piece with the enemy king behind it on the same line, and that piece can no longer move: moving it would leave the king in check, which the rules forbid. That is a pin.

The dangerous part of a pin is that the pinned piece stops counting as a defender. It still looks like it is guarding something, but it can never actually recapture. So there are two ways to use a pin: attack the pinned piece again, or take whatever the pinned piece was supposed to be defending.

In this position the bishop looks through the knight at the king, so the knight has no legal moves at all — and that knight is the only defender of the pawn on e5. Take the pawn and nothing can take back. Give Black a free move instead and a bishop steps in front of the king, and the pin is gone.

The back-rank mate

Lesson 4

A castled king sits behind three pawns that have never moved. It looks safe, but when a rook or queen reaches the back rank in the endgame the king has nowhere forward to go, and that is mate. It is the most common finish in beginners' games.

Here, dropping the rook down an open file to the back rank is mate. The black king is walled in by its own three pawns, the rook covers the squares beside it, and Black has no legal move at all.

The cure is easy: while you have a spare move, push one rook's pawn to give the king a bolt-hole. In this very position, if that pawn had already gone up one square, the king would escape diagonally and there would be no mate. Remember the move when the middlegame goes quiet — and check whether your opponent's king has a bolt-hole too.

Try it on the board

Pick a lesson and the board starts from that position. Start over as often as you like.

Now put it to work

Last updated 2026-09-13 · Run by Qdan, Inc.